Memo from the fourth meeting at 19.12.2011

Topic: Portraits and person photography (and person in environment)

-       Different and difficult than other type of photography technique because it involves people.

-       needs to know people

-       know your camera/equipment

-       people are afraid of camera, they pose, freeze when shooting

-       kids and pets are most challenging

Type of Portraits: there are four basic types of portraits:

• head and shoulders,
• 3 quarters length and
• full length
• environmental

1. close-ups or facial shots: Close-up portraits usually have the subject’s shoulders and head or less.  They are basically framed around the face.  These are the best to capture expressions and glamour shots. With the view the subject's head is turned to the left or right so one of the ears is not visible and the corner of the farthest eye is touching the borderline of the face. (eg: )
2. Full View - the subject looks straight ahead and both ears are clearly visible. It is rarely the best way to make a portrait, because this position is very static and usually used in passports or other documents. Upper body shots or midrange portraits are a little less personal than close-ups.  subject is probably more relaxed and can include a little of the background. 
3. Profile View - in this position the subject's head is turned 90 degrees from the camera and only one eye and one ear are visible. This view creates a bit dramatic image and requires good facial traits of the subject, especially nose and chin.

1. Environmental portraiture are portraits that let us into the life of the subject.  These usually include the whole subject in a scenario or partaking in some hobby that they enjoy.  These are best for telling a story to the viewer about the subject in the pictures.

( http://tips.romanzolin.com/articles/images/article013_image001.jpg )

Lighting:

-       proper lights are very important for portraits

-       natural lights are good, but its not possible all the time

-       light can be bounced from wall with flash that can turn their direction of pop-up, but also remember not to bounce from walls with very hard color.

-       make sure that shadows are not harsh in the face unless that is what you are trying to do

-       In sun, put person in shadows and put soft flash. If there are direct light, you can use some cloth or paper sheets

-       Between person and sun, use sheet to soften the lights

-       You can also use reflector if necessary, its not very expensive and could be used in different situations as most of them also contain refractors in them. This is important when the portrait is being taken in sunrise / sunset where you want both warm color background and also portraits look natural

-       To know more about different lighting techniques

•  Rembrant lighting,
• split-portrait lighting,
• butterfly portrait lighting, refer to:

-       http://www.professionalphotography101.com/portrait_lighting/lighting_names.html

-       http://www.vividlight.com/articles/1615.htm

-       http://tips.romanzolin.com/articles/article012.php

-       http://photo.net/making-photographs/light

Based on these category, there are other types as we ll:

-       http://www.photopoly.net/portraits-types-and-tips/

Tips:

-       eyes are important in portraits, focus in eyes

-       talk to person , take 5 more minute before you start taking pictures

-       it is important that you understand how/what they do

-       understand what characteristics of person (what they like, hobby) and look for perspective while you are doing that

-       it is important that people are comfortable, so respect the way they are, don’t comment negative way (“that’s great”, “you look nice”, “your boot color suits perfectly” and so on)

-       advice now and then, “could you please do…”, “maybe if you…”

-        

People are more comfortable in their own location, whatever the location is (work, home) because they know the place and does not get nervous in new place with new people. Goto persons place in their own environment, something in background should be important for them

-       if person is not sure about their pose, give them something in their hand (eg, a ball, apple) so that they can do something with it

-        act like as if you know what you are doing (even if you don’t know) to make person feel comfortable that you are not doing something wrong to their picture.

-       Say something nice, guide the person (stand here, look that side!!)

-       Look out for

• frame, side lights, background (should be darker to make persons face stand out)
• to pack more stuffs, use telephoto lens and make person stand out from the frame
• depending on lens you have or type of photo you are taking, f-value cane be between 1.4 to 5
• use panning, servo-mode focusing on certain subject and background is moving

Links:

-       http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portrait_photography

-       http://photo.net/learn/portraits/

-       http://www.digital-photography-school.com/10-ways-to-take-stunning-portraits

-      http://www.wildheart.com.au/public_panel/learn_photography_now_page_files/portrait_photography/index.php

-        http://www.brighthub.com/multimedia/photography/articles/57334.aspx

Note, if you don’t understand certain term or concept, google it and try to see the “images”, that gives more clearer picture of what those thing means

HOMEWORK:

Take 2 pictures:

-       First picture with one of the first 3 style of portraits described above

-       Second picture of a person doing something or in situation (Environmental portraiture)

Send it to joemul.photo@gmail.com before our next meeting on 9.1. at 17-19.

Memo from the second meeting at 4.12.2011

Memo from the second meeting at 4.12.2011

• List of things which we would like to hear/ learn at our meetings (list is still open, so please feel free to add more)

1. HDR
2. Bulb pictures
3. Night photography
4. Studio photography (low/high key)
5. Portraits
6. Macro/micro photography
7. Landscapes and Nature
8. Black and white photography
9. Composition
10. Basic camera information
11. Equipment (lenses, flashes)
12. Event photography
13. Reportage

• What we can find in our cameras part I- different programs

Cameras usually have some special programs (like landscape or portrait or macro). Of course you can use them as much as you want (remember to change them for different subjects). But it is good to know that they are work differently.

For example landscape program maybe is not the best for making portrait pictures since it may improve green colors (for trees) and blue (for the sky).

Programs are usually written on basis of many tries done before by scientists working in Nikon, Canon and so on- the camera will assume that there might be this kind of condition and probably you would like to have your sky blue in the landscape and your skin nice and soft in your portraits. They make an average from many pictures taken in different conditions and assumed as good.

• Speed:

You can keep very general rule: As many mm of zoom you have as many parts of seconds you can use and your picture should not be moved or shacked. For example- if your camera has zoom 200, your minimum value for speed and not moved picture is 1/200. If you have lenses 16 mm- speed around 1/20.Nowadays is also common to have special systems that are supporting- stabilizing picture. But it works only a bit.

• Some general guidelines:

-for sport (running, jumping)- use speed 1/500 (if you are inside and is darker, you can try with 1/400  or 1/320 but then you will already able to notice movement in the picture) If you would like to “freeze”  the movement, and you don't have enough light, try to use 1/200 and flash. Of course if the action is close enough.

-birds:  1/1000 or even more. It will allow you to completely freeze the movement. The light can be a bit problematic here, because you will “catch the light” really fast, so you need really good light to make proper picture. The best is strong full daylight. Other way with this speed your pictures will be too dark.

-Movement: 1/20. This values will let you  show the movement. For example how person is walking or dancing. You can see the mark of the movement. Interesting effect you can get using flash in some point of this 1/20. Then background would be moved, but for example face of the person will be with good light and quite sharp.

• What to check in the camera:

Menu: flash guidelines or flash synchronization. You can set your flash in two moments: first when the mirror is going up. And this is usually default setting. Try to change it to the point, when mirror is going down. (second curtain/ rear flash) Check in manual of your camera if you don't know if you have this option or where to find it.

• ISO

When you want to take night pictures, try to not put to high ISO. It is better to have lower ISO and a bit longer time of exposure- it will minimize the noises. The higher ISO you are using, the softer pictures you will have. Some cameras also have functions of noise reduction, but this function may cause loose of some pictures' information. For sharp pictures of the stars you can try with 25 seconds. With this time, they should not be moved.

• Speed of flash

remember that flash also have limited speed, so if you will select higher speed for your picture it may happen, that your flash won't be enough fast. Flash usually has speed 1/500 s. You can manipulate flash speed with external flashes.

• Programs A and S

Semi- automatic programs. In those, you are changing just one value and camera is preparing other values according to it. So for example you can set speed whichever you want and camera will automatically put 'learned' settings to make your picture look good.

• Aperture- f number

 -If you would like to make a portrait (especially for 1 person) or if you would like to have bokeh effect try to use f- 3-3,5. You can  achieve soft background but the person should be sharp.

 -If you want to take picture of some action that is happening, try to use f 8-11. Especially if the main accent is on the persons. This setting should create this accent but also background should be nicely visible.

 - for landscapes try to use f 18/20/32. It should make all things sharp. Like with many things the most extreme values might affect your pictures. Usually the lowest value of f number that should keep your picture ok is 4 and maximum around 20.

• M- Manual settings

The best option to practice this mode is with controlled light conditions or during the bright day.

• Jarno's “to do before taking picture” list

1. Value: Do you have idea for the picture? What do you want to tell through it? Which history it will tell, where are the people, who are they?

2. Cropping: Crop reality- What will be and what will be not on the picture. How would you like to show the persons, where will be the environment. Remember that in western culture we are “reading pictures” from left to right side and following the natural paths of eyes. It is also sometimes good to stop the eyes- to attract attention.

3. Framing: Check the borders of your camera's frame and frames of your lenses if you will cut something important from the picture or not. Check also how is the perspective and if you are not creating strange compositions. Horizon line is also important. It should be in proper level and straight. Every change (even couple of degrees) will make picture different.

4. Depth / Lights: Check the lights and shadows. Check the light balance. Eg, It is better to show dark background and bright person. It is making picture more 3D. Other way you can get “flat picture”.

5. Try focusing and balance. Focusing should by on the eyes of the persons. Check what else will be sharp from the background.

Links:

1. Wikipedia :) There are some nice examples of pictures if you will type “f number”. Try also other key words.

2. http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-exposure.htm       (check also other connected subjects)

3. http://www.photographymad.com/pages/view/10-top-photography-composition-rules  

Homework 2: Shutter speed!

• Take 2 pictures: One of “frozen movement” (high shutter speed)and the second one with some movement on it(low-shutter speed)- movement of walking person, cars, dance and so on(be creative!!).
• Send your pictures (not more than 1 mb each) it to joemul.photo@gmail.com before Monday meeting.

Memo from the first meeting of JMPC - 28.11.2011

This memo/information goes to everyone who are already part of club, or have shown their interests or have wished to come to club but missed the first meeting.

Yesterday (28.11) we had our first meeting at our regular meeting place at Vyöhyke seminar hall, Suvantokatu 1. There were altogether 21 participants and the hall was almost full. We started by introducing ourself to the group and then Arno proceeded with talking more about the practical matters and his professional experience with Photography. In the rest of the session, Jarno presented about the topic - "White Balance" (a note about this must have been sent to you by email if you have subscribed to our Google groups).

Some of the matters decided : 

•   We will have regular meeting every Monday 17-19. This time of meeting could include for example presentation, comment of the homework, short theoretical introduction for new subject, discussion, giving new homework etc. The meeting hall has been booked for that time and since there are so many of us and that we are afraid it is not possible to find a date that would suit everyone but hopefully many of us can participate. Date/Time for excursion or taking group photo session will however be decided later.

•  The club only exists with its members and their interests, thus regular participation is expected. All members suggestions, ideas are welcome for our improvements. We have possibilities to publish our pictures in other media (newspaper, events, website). 

•  Since we do not have confirmed sponsors, we have to pay for renting the meeting place. Thus membership fee will be collected (yearly, 15 euros for non-members of JoMoni and 10 euros for JoMoni) for renting place and coffee/snacks. Barun will be responsible for collecting the money. 

•  In every meeting, we will decide a topic/theme for taking picture. Club members make pictures based on the theme and send their one(but not more than two) picture before the next meeting to our email. We will upload those picture in club's Picasa account. In the next consecutive meeting we will look at the picture together and analyze, comment and get feedback from others about our picture. Best pictures from each session will be selected and archived for our exhibition next year. 

• We agreed next meeting will be on 5.12.2011. Jomoni is organizing a Pikkujoulu (little Christmas) happening and we will inform about this in our next meeting to the members of the club.

Before next meeting:

1. 1) Join our Google groups ( http://groups.google.com/group/joensuu-multicultural-photography-club ) and facebook group to be updated about future notices.
2. Test/trial for the WB settings and information about different sources of lights in your camera. 
3. Homework: This weeks our theme for taking picture is "Artificial Light". Natural light are for example daylight, moonlight, fire etc, whereas artificial light include street light, bulbs, neons, flash etc. This is possible since most time of the day is dark and we have to use these lights. Take pictures according to the theme (look for resources, see other pictures in Internet, get idea from others, be creative). Select one (max 2) picture which you would like to share with us. Put your nice signature on it and save in size max. 1 MB. Keep original picture as you might need it later and send it before Sunday 4.12.2011 (midnight) to our mail ( joemul.photo@gmail.com ) . If you cannot participate in the next meeting, you can still send the picture with your signature/watermark and explain a bit about the picture (e.g., background information, what were you thinking, why is the picture important and so on) and we will put your picture to our Picasa album.
4. Think about topic interesting for you, write them down, send them by email, so we can plan what we are going to learn.