Memo from the second meeting at 4.12.2011
- List of things which we would like to hear/ learn at our meetings (list is still open, so please feel free to add more)
- HDR
- Bulb pictures
- Night photography
- Studio photography (low/high key)
- Portraits
- Macro/micro photography
- Landscapes and Nature
- Black and white photography
- Composition
- Basic camera information
- Equipment (lenses, flashes)
- Event photography
- Reportage
- What we can find in our cameras part I- different programs
Cameras usually have some special programs (like landscape or portrait or macro). Of course you can use them as much as you want (remember to change them for different subjects). But it is good to know that they are work differently.
For example landscape program maybe is not the best for making portrait pictures since it may improve green colors (for trees) and blue (for the sky).
Programs are usually written on basis of many tries done before by scientists working in Nikon, Canon and so on- the camera will assume that there might be this kind of condition and probably you would like to have your sky blue in the landscape and your skin nice and soft in your portraits. They make an average from many pictures taken in different conditions and assumed as good.
- Speed:
You can keep very general rule: As many mm of zoom you have as many parts of seconds you can use and your picture should not be moved or shacked. For example- if your camera has zoom 200, your minimum value for speed and not moved picture is 1/200. If you have lenses 16 mm- speed around 1/20.Nowadays is also common to have special systems that are supporting- stabilizing picture. But it works only a bit.
- Some general guidelines:
-for sport (running, jumping)- use speed 1/500 (if you are inside and is darker, you can try with 1/400 or 1/320 but then you will already able to notice movement in the picture) If you would like to “freeze” the movement, and you don't have enough light, try to use 1/200 and flash. Of course if the action is close enough.
-birds: 1/1000 or even more. It will allow you to completely freeze the movement. The light can be a bit problematic here, because you will “catch the light” really fast, so you need really good light to make proper picture. The best is strong full daylight. Other way with this speed your pictures will be too dark.
-Movement: 1/20. This values will let you show the movement. For example how person is walking or dancing. You can see the mark of the movement. Interesting effect you can get using flash in some point of this 1/20. Then background would be moved, but for example face of the person will be with good light and quite sharp.
- What to check in the camera:
Menu: flash guidelines or flash synchronization. You can set your flash in two moments: first when the mirror is going up. And this is usually default setting. Try to change it to the point, when mirror is going down. (second curtain/ rear flash) Check in manual of your camera if you don't know if you have this option or where to find it.
- ISO
When you want to take night pictures, try to not put to high ISO. It is better to have lower ISO and a bit longer time of exposure- it will minimize the noises. The higher ISO you are using, the softer pictures you will have. Some cameras also have functions of noise reduction, but this function may cause loose of some pictures' information. For sharp pictures of the stars you can try with 25 seconds. With this time, they should not be moved.
- Speed of flash
remember that flash also have limited speed, so if you will select higher speed for your picture it may happen, that your flash won't be enough fast. Flash usually has speed 1/500 s. You can manipulate flash speed with external flashes.
- Programs A and S
Semi- automatic programs. In those, you are changing just one value and camera is preparing other values according to it. So for example you can set speed whichever you want and camera will automatically put 'learned' settings to make your picture look good.
- Aperture- f number
-If you would like to make a portrait (especially for 1 person) or if you would like to have bokeh effect try to use f- 3-3,5. You can achieve soft background but the person should be sharp.
-If you want to take picture of some action that is happening, try to use f 8-11. Especially if the main accent is on the persons. This setting should create this accent but also background should be nicely visible.
- for landscapes try to use f 18/20/32. It should make all things sharp. Like with many things the most extreme values might affect your pictures. Usually the lowest value of f number that should keep your picture ok is 4 and maximum around 20.
- M- Manual settings
The best option to practice this mode is with controlled light conditions or during the bright day.
- Jarno's “to do before taking picture” list
1. Value: Do you have idea for the picture? What do you want to tell through it? Which history it will tell, where are the people, who are they?
2. Cropping: Crop reality- What will be and what will be not on the picture. How would you like to show the persons, where will be the environment. Remember that in western culture we are “reading pictures” from left to right side and following the natural paths of eyes. It is also sometimes good to stop the eyes- to attract attention.
3. Framing: Check the borders of your camera's frame and frames of your lenses if you will cut something important from the picture or not. Check also how is the perspective and if you are not creating strange compositions. Horizon line is also important. It should be in proper level and straight. Every change (even couple of degrees) will make picture different.
4. Depth / Lights: Check the lights and shadows. Check the light balance. Eg, It is better to show dark background and bright person. It is making picture more 3D. Other way you can get “flat picture”.
5. Try focusing and balance. Focusing should by on the eyes of the persons. Check what else will be sharp from the background.
Links:
1. Wikipedia :) There are some nice examples of pictures if you will type “f number”. Try also other key words.
2. http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-exposure.htm (check also other connected subjects)
Homework 2: Shutter speed!
- Take 2 pictures: One of “frozen movement” (high shutter speed)and the second one with some movement on it(low-shutter speed)- movement of walking person, cars, dance and so on(be creative!!).
- Send your pictures (not more than 1 mb each) it to joemul.photo@gmail.com before Monday meeting.
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